Like any design enthusiast, I have been craving creative inspiration and exploration beyond the four walls that have been my faithful refuge this past year. While our editors have delighted in picking up favorite hobbies that had been thrown to the wayside, delved into the history of our favorite prints and patterns that we never seemed to have time to study, and created cozy and colorful home office spaces, we've also been jonesing to explore the world beyond our windows with all five senses again.
Recently, I was fortunate enough to hit the open road and savor the history, beauty, flavors, and talent of Memphis before making my way through the South's Gulf states. I had no idea how energizing and eye-opening this trip would be, especially after spending so many months at home. Not only did I discover so many of the diverse, talented, and hard-working people behind the local businesses that weave together the South's unique fabric, but I also had the opportunity to meet many of those preserving our region's historic buildings, traditions, and foodways in part by telling their stories in raw and moving ways, and thus pioneering our region's bright future.
And since my own little car wasn't nearly large enough to hold all the books, accessories, and unworn outfits that have been waiting in the wings for months, Lexus was kind enough to loan a sleek, sumptuous hybrid model of its RX crossover, ensuring I could safely cruise from one historic landmark to the next in a luxurious yet eco-conscious vehicle—and lug home any artifact or resource that struck my fancy while on the road.
Day One: Memphis, Tennessee
Famously nicknamed Home of the Blues and The Birthplace of Rock ‘n Roll, Memphis has served as an incubator for legendary artists like Aretha Franklin, Johnny Cash, B.B. King, and Elvis Presley. This place is anything but short on soul, and I saw that in ways beyond music. From carefully curated local book stores to eclectic restaurants and impeccably kept historic homes, Memphis was the perfect place to begin my journey down through the Gulf States to discover the region's best historical, cultural, and culinary attractions.
Where to Stay in Memphis
The Peabody Hotel
Driving through Downtown Memphis, which is full of ornamented Gilded Age buildings, is an experience in and of itself, but there’s simply no place like The Peabody Hotel. The moment you walk into the more than 150-year-old hotel, you can imagine Memphis in its most glamorous heyday, sensing its enduring legacy that is sure continue inspiring for generations to come.
The Peabody Hotel's Classic Interiors
The best way to enjoy The Peabody Hotel is to indulge in all of its heralded traditions: lingering over a socially distanced afternoon tea at Chez Philippe (the only Forbes Four-Star restaurant in the Mid-South), spectating the morning or evening Duck March, and indulging in a festive cocktail and bar snacks at happy hour prior to the conclusion of the evening Duck March back to the Royal Duck Palace on the hotel's rooftop.
What to Do in Memphis
Visit Victorian Village
Just a five-minute drive from The Peabody Hotel lies Victorian Village, a neighborhood home to some of the city’s most iconic and well-preserved houses from the 19th century. All of these properties were closed for our visit, but they are still worth admiring from the street. However, if you’re able to visit once the Mallory-Neely House, Woodruff-Fontaine House, James Lee House (which is now a charming B&B), and the other neighboring Victorian homes have reopened to the public, save some time for happy hour at the Mollie Fontaine Taylor House, which is now a fabulous bar and lounge run by acclaimed chef and local icon Karen Carrier.
Enjoy an Unforgettable Meal at The Beauty Shop in Cooper-Young
Carrier owns a handful of distinct dining establishments and bars around Memphis, and you simply can’t miss out on dinner at The Beauty Shop, her retro salon-turned-restaurant that Priscilla Presley once patronized with a fantastic, vegetable-forward menu and sophisticated cocktails. While your tastebuds will immediately alert you this place is star-worthy, the endless accolades, articles, and photos of the cast of The Firm on the walls underscore just how beloved Carrier and her restaurant are far beyond this city. The restaurant also offers dining an array of festive greenhouses out front and in the courtyard, keeping you warm and distanced.
The Beauty Shop is located in the hip neighborhood of Cooper-Young, where the streets are lined with local institutions, like Burke’s Books—an absolute haven for bibliophiles of all kinds—and several other of Carrier’s watering holes. A quick, 10-minute venture to Midtown to discover this vibrant and charming part of the city is worth leaving The Peabody for for a few hours.
Peruse Memphis's Prominent Galleries and Gardens
Adjacent to The University of Memphis is the Dixon Gallery and Gardens, with 17 acres of immaculate gardens. The spectacular home on the estate houses an impressive collection of early Impressionist art from the likes of Renoir, Cassatt, Monet, Degas, along with the works of local talents like Jimpsie Ayers, who produced a series of colorful and soothing works during the pandemic last year that are currently on exhibition.
Just across the street lies the Memphis Botanic Garden, which features 30 specialty gardens spread across 96 acres, a delightful cafe, and a charming gift shop full of local goods and educational resources you’ll actually read. Both locations offer comforting health and safety precautions with a variety of outdoor attractions.
Explore Black and Music History Downtown Once COVID Restrictions Permit
Another reason to stay at The Peabody is for its ideal location, and not just to the city's vibrant, neon-lined Beale Street. The hotel is walking distance from some of the city’s most popular attractions (which are some of its best), like the National Civil Rights Museum, which is housed in the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated and offers a moving experience, Stax Museum of American Soul Music, Sun City Records, and Slave Haven Underground Railroad Museum.
You’re also just around the corner from Belz Museum of Asian & Judaic Art which offers self-guided tour options if you want to keep your distance. Make sure to do your research before visiting Memphis to see which landmarks are open and if any require reservations.
Day Two: Jackson, Mississippi
With a five-and-a-half-hour drive to the Gulf ahead of me, I needed a lunch spot where I could linger, and Jackson just so happens to be located halfway between Memphis and New Orleans. I spent a few hours strolling through the idyllic Belhaven neighborhood in between the historic university of its namesake and Millsaps College, and left wildly impressed with my small taste of Mississippi’s capital city.
What to Do in Jackson
Grab Lunch at Elvie’s
I made the most of the little time I had by taking a quick walking tour through the charming, historic neighborhood. Belhaven's homes are well preserved and feature dazzling gardens blooming with camellias that bring winter cheer throughout the South just when we need it most. I worked up quite an appetite and snagged a table at Elvie’s, an adorable neighborhood cafe that serves up a delectable (and beautiful) seasonal menu and houses a fabulous bar program. The restaurant was inspired by Chef Hunter Evans’s grandmother, Elvaretta May Good, and offers the same warmth and hospitality one would expect from dining at the home of a Southern grandma!
Embrace Your Inner Literary Aficionado
Just a few blocks down from Elvie's is the Eudora Welty House and Garden, which pays homage to the Pulitzer Prize-winning author, renowned photojournalist, and activist who continues to inspire 20 years after her death. I booked a private tour of the estate, which has been lovingly preserved and offers incredible insight into Welty's life, inspirations, and legacy. I also stocked up on the majority on her published works, which are perfect reads for these strange times. Welty was so tuned in to her immediate surroundings and found much of her creative inspiration from the city she called home for nearly all of her life. My top pick? A newly republished collection of her famous short stories, with an introduction by Nashville-based author Ann Patchett (another beloved Southern author of mine).
While in Jackson, there’s no better way to wrap up a literary-inspired afternoon than with a pick-me-up at Coffee Prose, which features a latte menu inspired by literature's most iconic characters and tales. Be sure to order the Delta Wedding latte, as it's named after Welty’s acclaimed novel.
Day Two: Downtown New Orleans, Louisiana
There are few cities in America more unique, inspiring, and historic than New Orleans. Though it didn’t become a settlement until nearly 100 years after the Mayflower landed at Cape Cod, New Orleans had been a bustling port city for hundreds of years prior. It was discovered by Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto in the 16th century and by French explorer René-Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle in the 17th century, hence the vibrant mix of French and Spanish architecture throughout the city today. Not to mention it was the home to indigenous peoples long before it became a European settlement, and it also became a home for many African slaves—some of which became free while the city was under Spanish rule.
New Orleans broke free from the Spanish-French tug-of-war with the Louisiana Purchase in 1803. It quickly became the wealthiest and third-largest city in the U.S. thanks to thriving trade with Europe and the Caribbean as well, contributing to the ultra-laid-back, island feel of The Big Easy. A weekend is, of course, not enough to even scratch the surface of this incredible city, but we did our best to hit a few highlights.
Where to Stay in Downtown New Orleans
Maison de la Luz
If Iris Apfel was a New Orleanian instead of a New Yorker, Maison de la Luz is just the place she would drink, dine, and host her most fabulous soirees. Atelier Ace partnered with Studio Shamshiri to transform this former City Hall annex into a true work of art in this chic guests-only hotel that honors the city’s past and present while paving the way for a very stylish future.
Maison de la Luz's Vivid Interiors
A blend of bespoke and local antique furnishings, artwork from neighborhood talents like Rebecca Rebouche and Clare Crespo, and custom wallpaper and rugs with New Orleans-themed motifs, this place offers the ultimate way to lavishly experience the best of downtown NOLA in one place. Plus, guests at Maison de la Luz receive some exciting perks, like access to Ace Hotel’s gym and rooftop pool next door, complimentary morning coffee delivery, evening happy hour bites and beverages in the Living Room, and secret access to the hotel’s wildly popular Bar Marilou.
Bar Marilou is a local favorite for enjoying exceptional libations in a wild yet cozy law library-turned-chic hangout. With decor and sips inspired by ‘70s French drinking culture, Moroccan cafes, and the city’s Mediterranean and Caribbean flavor, you don’t want to miss a nightcap or happy hour here—or the bar's impressive collection of design-centric books (the hotel partnered with Phaidon to supply an ample library of titles to enjoy throughout your stay). Plus, an exclusive entrance behind the library wall just for guests of the hotel offers access to a Moroccan-inspired room for enjoying your libations in private. (Pro tip: You can also bring your cocktail back to your room with you at the end of the night).
What to Do in Downtown New Orleans
What can’t you do in Downtown New Orleans? This city is awash in culture, from the French Quarter’s centuries-old attractions to Bywater’s modern murals and laid-back haunts, there’s truly something for every kind of design enthusiast in this coastal city. I spent the large portion of my downtown time in the Central Business District (CBD), Warehouse District, and the French Quarter exploring both popular attractions and hidden gems.
Brunch at Kelly Fields’s Willa Jean
James Beard award-winning pastry chef Kelly Fields has become a household name with her ultra-flaky biscuits and Southern comfort food served up everyday at Willa Jean in The Warehouse District. I advise setting aside an hour (or two!) to indulge in Willa Jean's glorious layers of pastry, seasonal produce-driven dishes, and clever spins on classic cocktails—and don’t leave without snagging a Caramel Crunch King Cake in the winter for a taste of Mardi Gras, which is cancelled in 2021.
Spend an Afternoon Admiring Local Art and Architecture in The Warehouse District and French Quarter
Julia Street is just a few blocks from Willa Jean and is a charming place for wandering into private art galleries and chatting up local enthusiasts that make this city so colorful. Ogden Museum of Southern Art and Contemporary Arts Center, New Orleans (CACNO) are just a few more blocks down and offer an excellent education on creatives who are local to New Orleans—and the South in general—in a short amount of time. Just be sure to reserve tickets for both Ogden and CACNO before arrival, as they are only accepting a small number of visitors at specific time slots to ensure social distancing.
While the French Quarter is bustling with activities and excitement, I stuck to my mission of finding new favorite Southern artists, getting my jazz history fix at Louis Armstrong Park, and soaking in the sights and sounds all around me. Gallery Orange on Royal Street is right in the middle of the action and offers some uniquely beautiful bohemian offerings from artists around the world. And I couldn’t skip a trip to Krewe’s flagship store next door. The flagship's optical cafe is currently closed due to COVID-19, but thoughtful protocols ensured a comfortable in-store shopping experience.
Imbibe at Arnaud’s French 75 Bar on Bourbon Street
A newly refreshed Bourbon Street is certainly quieter than usual these days, but that came as a relief as I was hoping to avoid the typically massive crowds on my visit to Arnaud’s, a New Orleans institution dating back to 1918 that features classic Creole cuisine and helped grow the popularity of my favorite cocktail, the French 75. I chatted with Bar Manager Christoph Dornemann all about the history of Arnaud’s and how the restaurant became associated with the classic libation, eventually leading to the eponymous bar with a menu that features nearly a dozen iterations of the French 75.
Seated in eclectic-chic digs with a luxury safari-meets-Parisian cocktail bar flair, Dornemann explained that the restaurant’s founder, an eccentric French wine salesman named Arnaud Cazenave, had a rambunctious daughter, socialite Germaine Cazenave Wells, who loved the then-newly created cocktail. (It was first concocted via a happy accident in celebration of the end of WWI, as the French soldiers on the Allied front were happy enough to celebrate with champagne, while the American and British troops wanted something a little stronger and added cognac or gin to their bubbly). Germaine became an icon in herself, serving as the namesake of the restaurant’s upstairs Mardi Gras Museum (a great way to experience some of the most lavish costumes through the years in lieu of an actual celebration this year), and the French 75 continues to commemorate life’s biggest moments more than 100 years later.
Dine at Nina Compton’s Compere Lapin
Nina Compton is a James Beard award-winning chef (there are a lot in this city!) who artfully blends her St. Lucian upbringing with her classical French and Italian culinary training and the deeply-rooted indigenous culture of New Orleans in Compère Lapin’s widely acclaimed menu. This Warehouse District restaurant is housed in the Old No. 77 Hotel and features local artwork at every turn, the most delectable handmade pasta, and a hip yet understated atmosphere that just may cause you to forget how fortunate you are to dine in a place of such culinary importance. Word to the wise: come hungry because you’ll want to try everything.
Day Three: Edgard, Louisiana + Uptown New Orleans
The latter half of my whirlwind tour of New Orleans was still rooted in the same premise—discovering the city’s best in arts, design, and culture—while venturing towards the other side of town. Heading out of Maison de la Luz, you’ll stay on Carondelet Street, following it down until you hit Uptown, New Orleans’s hidden gem. I also took a quick road trip to Edgard, Louisiana, to explore one of the only plantations in the South that has been transformed into a slavery museum.
Whitney Plantation
The mini road trip required to get to Whitney Plantation from New Orleans is worth every second. It hits you during the drive through Louisiana's wetlands that it would have been difficult to escape from here, and there were not many places to hide. Coming up through the driveway, you’ll find an immaculately restored “Big House,” slave quarters, a chapel, and other buildings that were common on plantations, along with a more recent structure that houses an in-depth and moving exhibit on the history of the international slave trade. I saved that for last, downloading the Whitney Plantation app and beginning a self-guided tour straight away.
This tour takes place completely out-of-doors (unless there is no other group in the church and you are comfortable going inside the spacious room at the end), and it's a perfect way to explore real Southern history while safely distancing from others.
There are 14 stops on the tour, which actively avoids focusing on the plantation home’s impeccable art collection or period furniture, and instead puts all the emphasis on what it was like to be a slave here at Whitney Plantation in part by moving you through artwork depicting the life of a slave (and the process of being taken from your family and becoming one) throughout the property.
The tour finishes in the chapel slaves built five years after the Emancipation Proclamation, where they were able to worship, educate, and unite the way their ancestors did for a few hours a week. Be sure to save time for browsing the indoor exhibit and stock up on the museum’s incredible selection of books for further education. My picks: Yaa Gyasi’s Homegoing and Michael W. Twitty’s The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South.
Where to Stay in Uptown New Orleans
The Chloe
From the moment you walk up to The Chloe, it's clear there is something special about this place, an intuition confirmed as soon you step inside its impeccably layered, art-filled interiors—along with the backyard pool deck and tropical bar. With a "welcome" Aperol Spritz in hand, I was shown to my charming room chock full of local favorites like a record player and local jams from Peaches Records, a dreamy robe by lekha, and toiletries from Oxalis. Like the entire experience at The Choloe, the rooms accommodations perfectly thought out without feeling overdone.
This mid-century boarding house-turned-understatedly chic boutique hotel was lovingly brought to life by local restauranteur Robert LeBlanc with the help of interior design guru Sara Ruffin Costello, offering guests a taste of contemporary Uptown life while preserving the architectural integrity of this historic property that tells a story of life 80 years ago.
The Chloe's Understatedly Chic Interiors
"We don't ever start with an idea or concept. We start with a setting, finding a really incredible building that deserves to be salvaged and invite the world back into enjoy it," LeBlanc says. He and his team work with a local historian to take a deep dive into the full history of a building, mining it for stories to tell through a restaurant, bar, or hotel to determine the concept and vibe.
"As in wine, 'terroir,' or this sense of place, is equally important in hospitality to help different people from different backgrounds to feel at home and enjoy a shared experience over our food or drinks or accommodations." It's safe to say he has succeeded in this with The Chloe, as locals I met along the way told me how much they love grabbing a drink here—or that they've been dreaming of going since it opened this fall.
LeBlanc says Ruffin Costello was the perfect person to create the hotel's dreamy vignettes, eclectic hallways, and charming suites, as her approach to design is beautiful and inspiring without being too delicate.
"If things are too precious, you won't feel comfortable laughing too loudly or getting too comfy or you'll be too afraid of spilling something," he says. "With our places, we do want them to be inspiring, but we also want them to feel a bit rugged and lived-in to where it's comfortable." That's exactly the charm of The Chloe—at once aspirational, well-collected, and effortlessly chic, while at the same time a place you can drop your bags and immediately call home.
What to Do in Uptown New Orleans
Peruse Magazine Street for Local Eats and Art
If you've visited New Orleans before, chances are you’ve visited the other end of Magazine Street, but I recommend parking near the intersection at Napoleon Avenue for a whole new experience on the Uptown side of this historic street. Start with coffee and patisserie at La Boulangerie to get your caffeine and sugar fix before walking across the street to Ashley Longshore Studio Gallery for a dose of vibrant, creative inspiration.
Longshore’s imaginative gallery is awash with color, sparkle, positive energy, and a truly incredible Basquiat Audrey from her “Deconstructed Masters” series that I can't stop thinking about. Once you’ve received a true pick-me-up from your pastry of choice and time at the gallery, you’ll be energized and ready to spend the rest of your day wandering all over this beautiful area of town.
Take a Walking Architecture Tour
Half the fun of being a design enthusiast in Uptown New Orleans is simply admiring the impeccably preserved architecture of both the residential and commercial buildings. There is still a unique blend of French, Spanish, Victorian, and Classic Revival architecture in this part of the city, which is also famous for its colorful row houses.
Along the way, you’re sure to discover a new favorite lunch spot, antiques store, book shop, and artist (or five) in this culturally rich neighborhood that will leave you planning your next trip back. But if you’d rather enjoy the ride, this neighborhood is home to the iconic St. Charles Streetcar, the oldest continuously operating streetcar line in the world that whisks riders past an eclectic mix of homes and businesses lining the gorgeous avenue.
Drink and Dine Under the Stars at Mosquito Supper Club
Besides booking a room at The Chloe, the second most important thing to do before venturing to this vibrant neighborhood is reserving your spot at Mosquito Supper Club, the highly lauded farm-to-table Cajun restaurant nestled in a charming home down the street from the hotel. Chef Melissa Martin curates tantalizing tasting menus that pay homage to the farmers, shrimpers, oyster fishermen, and crabbers that have helped define her home state’s cuisine in cozy digs that make you feel like you’re joining in on her personal family feast. You won’t want to leave without purchasing Martin’s new cookbook, named after her restaurant, to bring the unforgettable culinary experience back to your loved ones in your kitchen.
If you don’t have a few hours to fully enjoy a tasting menu experience, grab a drink and a dozen oysters for happy hour at Mosquito Supper Club before heading to Cavan, another of LeBlanc’s stunning hospitality projects featuring a locally-inspired menu and fantastic cocktails in a 19th-century mansion with chic French interiors that feel anything but stuffy. And if you decide you just don't want to leave The Chloe (trust me, you won't), they also have a spectacular menu featuring regional cuisine with a special touch—plus, free breakfast with your stay.
Day Five: Fairhope, Alabama
After a quick two-and-a-half-hour drive from New Orleans through Mississippi's Gulf Coast towns, you’ll be relieved to discover you haven’t entirely left the fabulous architecture, art, and cuisine of New Orleans behind upon arriving in Fairhope. This vibrant coastal town may have not been on your radar if you’re not from Alabama or the South, but you’ll leave wanting to tell everyone you know about this special city by the bay that captured your heart.
Where to Stay in Fairhope
The Grand Hotel Golf Resort & Spa, Autograph Collection
There’s no better place to round out a long weekend of exploring the South’s history, culture, and cuisine than a stay at this nearly 125-year-old resort. During its long history, The Grand Hotel has served as a military hospital in The Civil War, and Army training facility during WWI, and a resort destination attracting locals, political figures, and celebrities alike, from Colin Powell to Margaret Thatcher to Dolly Parton and Aretha Franklin. The Grand, as it's known locally, even employs its own historian, Susan Stein, who shares the resort’s illustrious legacy and impressive art collection through a series of talks on the weekends—and also makes herself available to answer your burning questions in her office.
I stayed in the main building, right above Steins’s office in the Nall Suite, which honors the internationally acclaimed artist known by the one name who makes Fairhope his home studio for working in various mediums, from glass to clay to porcelain to watercolor. The artist attended the legendary École de Beaux-Arts in Paris where he was mentored by Salvador Dalí, traveled across North Africa, and lived in France, before settling down in this hidden gem on the bay in Alabama. It's the perfect accommodation for art aficionados, as it houses some of his works.
The Grand Hotel Resort & Spa's Charming Interiors
If your schedule allows, take some time to enjoy a leisurely Sunday at the hotel’s popular Jazz Brunch, featuring live music, plenty of bubbly, a spectacular spread of Southern favorites, and pristine views of Mobile Bay. You also won’t want to miss the hotel’s daily afternoon demonstration, Grandeur, Grit, and Glory, which pays tribute to its longstanding military history, followed by Daily Lagniappe—typically tea and a daily treat but in light of COVID-19 currently consists of gloved staff handing visitors packages of freshly baked cookies (no complaints here).
Finally, be sure to reserve a spot at the 1847 Bar’s daily cocktail demonstration where guests can sharpen their mixology skills and sample the bartender’s daily concoction before dinner at Southern Roots for fantastic farm-to-table fare. Might we suggest starting with the Tomato Pie and ending with the Alabama Chocolate Layer Cake?
What to Do in Fairhope
Wander through Fairhope's Charming Downtown
The Grand Hotel offers so many amenities and activities that you never have to leave the property, but we suggest carving out some time to enjoy the adorable downtown, with all its local shops, bistros, and galleries. A must-see in Downtown Fairhope is the iconic Page & Palette book store, cocktail cellar, and coffee shop, offering an incredible selection of titles and attracts the biggest names of the literary world to this third-generation family-run destination. In a city home to a number of novelists, artists, and other creatives, you're sure to find a kindred spirit getting inspiration for their next endeavor at this beloved spot.
Bike Around the Bay
Fairhope's generations-old historic bay houses are also worth touring from the outside. Grab a bike or lace up your favorite sneakers and make your way around the bay from The Grand Hotel to admire these gorgeous homes that have been passed down from family to family for decades—some since the 1800s.
After five packed days, it was time to head back home. Though I've been back for a few weeks now, I feel invigorated by having reconnected to the world around me—the incredible people, art, cuisine, history, and design I encountered in this sliver of the American South. The region's resiliency, unparalleled hospitality, innovation, creativity, and hope for the future makes me more proud to live here than ever. Here's to hitting the discovery- and inspiration-filled road in your own region—be it the American South or somewhere else.
Lauren Wicks is a Birmingham-based writer covering design trends, must-have products, travel inspiration, and entertaining. She’s obsessed with globally inspired textiles, hosting dinner parties, and French cocktails.
